Morelia Travel Guide

Morelia is the capital of Michoacán state, one of Mexico’s most food-obsessed regions, with a well-preserved colonial centre built from a distinctive pale-pink volcanic stone (cantera rosa) that gives the city a distinctive warm colour at dusk. The cathedral and the arcaded Palacio de Gobierno dominate the central square; the city has an active music and cultural scene driven partly by its large university population.

The historic centre

The Cathedral of Morelia (1660–1744) is one of the longest-completed cathedral projects in Mexico and one of the finest baroque church facades in the Americas. Its twin towers in the local pink stone are the city’s defining image. The Aqueduct — 1,600 metres of arched stone construction completed in 1789 — runs along Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel, a pedestrian boulevard flanked by cafes and restaurants.

Michoacán food

Michoacán has one of Mexico’s most distinctive state cuisines. Carnitas (slow-cooked pork, typically fried in lard) is the state’s most famous dish; the carnitas from the Mercado Independencia in Morelia are well-regarded. Uchepos (fresh corn tamales served with cream and salsa) are a Michoacán specialty. The crafts market near the church of San Francisco has artisan food stalls.

Monarch butterfly sanctuaries

From November to March, millions of Monarch butterflies overwinter in the forests of the Transvolcanic Belt west of Morelia. The Reserva de la Biosfera Mariposa Monarca sanctuaries — particularly El Rosario and Sierra Chincua — are 100–120 km northwest. The sight of butterfly-covered trees and swarms of orange wings is extraordinary. Tours from Morelia or from the nearby town of Angangueo run during the season.

Lake Pátzcuaro

55 km west, Lake Pátzcuaro is a highland lake surrounded by Purépecha indigenous villages. Pátzcuaro town has excellent craft shops (lacquerware, copper ware, woven goods) and a large central square. The lake’s island of Janitzio is famous for its Día de Muertos celebrations (31 October–1 November) — one of the most atmospheric in all Mexico, with candlelit processions to the island cemetery.

Getting there

Morelia’s General Francisco J. Mujica Airport (MLM) has direct connections to Mexico City and several US cities. ADO buses connect to Mexico City (4 hours), Guadalajara (3.5 hours), and Guanajuato (3 hours).

When to go

Year-round city with a mild highland climate (1,920 m). The Monarch butterfly season (November–March) is the most popular time. The International Film Festival (FICM) in October is one of Mexico’s most important.